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The TableCheck Guide to Washoku, The Cuisine of Japan
Explore the traditions, techniques, and seasonal philosophy behind Japan’s traditional washoku cuisine.
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Sushi, sashimi, tempura, mochi, matcha, sake—these are some of the best-known examples of washoku (Japanese cuisine). Though the word itself wasn’t coined until the Meiji era (1868–1912), washoku has a long history of over a thousand years, going all the way back to the first millennium BC, when rice was first cultivated in Japan.
Washoku is a rich collection of traditions perfected over time, an art form, a reflection of traditional Japanese values, and an integral component of Japan’s national identity and cultural heritage all at once. It slowly began gaining attention worldwide in the late 20th century, and has garnered even more international recognition and acclaim following its designation as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013.
But what exactly makes washoku what it is? Discover what defines washoku and more with this guide to Japan’s traditional cuisine.
Characteristics of Washoku
As recognized by UNESCO, the following four characteristics define washoku.
Respect for Local Ingredients and Natural Flavors
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Respect for Local Ingredients and Natural Flavors
From Hokkaido up north to Okinawa down south, each part of Japan takes pride in its local specialties. Thus, a meal at a refined establishment such as a ryokan inn or a high-end Japanese restaurant called ryotei is a way to familiarize yourself with the area you’re visiting, one dish at a time. At such places, menus are carefully curated to feature the season’s finest local ingredients, prepared with cooking techniques and seasonings that draw out and/or complement their natural flavors.
Nutritional Balance
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With a typical meal packed with protein, vitamins and minerals, and carbohydrates thanks to well-balanced portions of fish (or meat), vegetables, and rice, the traditional Japanese diet is nutritious and healthy. Processed meats and oily dishes such as deep-fried foods hardly feature in washoku; instead, there is a preference toward healthier ingredients that are rich in umami. It’s no surprise that some people think that the Japanese diet is the secret to long life!
Expressions of Seasonality
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Shun, or seasonality, is the essence of washoku, reflecting Japan’s appreciation of nature and its attunement to the changing seasons. Menus change regularly to highlight the best that the season has to offer, and the tableware and decor are carefully selected to match. For example, some chefs might garnish plates with seasonal foliage like cherry blossoms in spring or maple leaves in autumn.
A Close Link to Annual Celebrations
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Related to awareness and appreciation of the season is the observation of seasonal celebrations, traditions cemented over time and passed down across generations. Many of these special occasions are associated with particular dishes that carry a symbolic meaning, whether it’s good fortune or gratitude to the deities. For example, osechi ryori (New Year cuisine) is the collective name for various small dishes with auspicious meanings, such as prawn for long life.
Common Ingredients in Washoku
It should go without saying that rice is integral to washoku. It is not only a staple of Japanese cuisine, with most meals being accompanied by a bowl of freshly steamed, fluffy white rice, but it is also an important ingredient in many other gourmet delights such as sake and many types of wagashi sweets, including mochi.
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Similarly, you can think of dashi (soup stock that is usually fish- or seaweed-based) and fermented food as the building blocks of washoku. After all, these highly versatile ingredients give dishes the distinctive flavors that washoku is known for, whether it’s the umami taste of seasonings like soy sauce and miso, or the mild sourness of rice vinegar. Pickled vegetables and natto soybeans are just some of the many common examples of fermented Japanese food.
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With Japan being an archipelago surrounded by waters, and around 70% of its land covered in forested mountains, washoku makes full use of umi no sachi and yama no sachi, the bounties of the seas and mountains, respectively. As a result, fish, seafood, and seasonal produce such as young bamboo shoots in spring and mushrooms in autumn feature heavily in Japanese cuisine.
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Although meat from domesticated livestock was not widely consumed in Japan until the Meiji era, it has been incorporated into washoku as well. Wagyu beef, for example, is prized for its fine marbling and melt-in-your-mouth texture. Chicken-based dishes such as karaage (Japanese-style fried chicken) and yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) are affordable and ubiquitous, and so are pork-based dishes like tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) and tonjiru soup.
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Washoku Meal Formats
Though washoku is served in a variety of ways, the standard Japanese meal format is considered to be ichiju-sansai, regarded as the foundation of washoku. As its meaning of “one soup, three dishes” implies, this consists of rice accompanied by one main dish, two side dishes, and soup. A staple of Japanese home cooking and the basic format for teishoku set meals, this type of meal provides just the right balance of nutrients and variety of flavors, making it healthy, tasty, and filling.
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Embodying washoku’s defining characteristics is kaiseki ryori, multi-course haute cuisine. Over time, it evolved from the simple meal served at formal tea ceremonies, which was called cha-kaiseki and more similar to ichiju-sansai, while drawing inspiration from the elaborate banquets of the imperial court of the Heian period (794–1185) and other traditional Japanese haute cuisines.
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Modern-day kaiseki courses feature an assortment of dishes made with locally sourced seasonal ingredients, arranged elegantly on tableware selected to match the dish and the season. As the former imperial capital, Kyoto in particular has a long tradition of kaiseki ryori. Known as Kyo-kaiseki, its local kaiseki cuisine is characterized by lighter, subtler flavors.
Similar to kaiseki ryori in that it is also an upscale multi-course meal is kappo ryori. The difference is that kappo restaurants usually have an open kitchen for diners to watch their food being prepared. Counter seats give guests closer access to the culinary action and opportunities to chat with the chef. This washoku meal format and dining style is said to have originated in Osaka.
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While many kappo restaurants are omakase (chef’s choice)-style, meaning that diners leave it to the chef to decide what to serve, the interactive nature of kappo dining means that chefs can also tailor the food according to guests’ preferences.
BROWSE KAPPO RESTAURANTS IN TOKYO
BROWSE KAPPO RESTAURANTS IN OSAKA
And, although many Japanese today eat meat, shojin ryori, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, was also influential to the development of washoku. Buddhist monks—some of Japan’s earliest adherents to the ichiju-sansai format—introduced tofu to Japan, and shojin ryori’s emphasis on seasonal vegetables is reflected in kaiseki cuisine. While monks’ daily meals are usually simple, some temples offering lodgings to travelers may serve more luxurious shojin ryori meals to guests.
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The Rule of Five in Washoku
Five is a significant number in washoku, as it represents a harmonious balance of elements and is considered an auspicious number. As such, five key principles inspired by Buddhist philosophy guide and define washoku. Read on for an introduction to these principles in no particular order.
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Washoku is meant to engage all five senses: not just the self-explanatory senses of smell and taste, but also touch, sight, and sound. A single meal must also feature a balance of textures and not only flavors, and artistic presentation is crucial to the dining experience as well. Pleasant sounds—whether it’s the sound of food being fried, or even the lack of sound thereof, as in the quiet ambiance of a restaurant—can also greatly enhance one’s appreciation of the food.
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These five culinary techniques are integral to washoku:
Nama: Carefully slicing and serving food raw, as is done for sushi and sashimi
Niru: Simmering or boiling food in liquid such as broth to draw out its flavors
Yaku: Cooking through controlled heat exposure, be it through grilling, sauteing, or roasting
Musu: Steaming food to achieve a more delicate texture and flavor
Ageru: Frying food in oil
Kaiseki-ryori meals, such as those served at ryokan, will usually showcase food made with all these techniques.
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Traditional wisdom has it that each washoku meal should include these five colors, not just for their aesthetic value, but also for creating nutritional balance and their supposed effects: red, yellow, green, white, and black. Red and yellow foods are believed to stimulate appetite, while green ones have a refreshing effect. Meanwhile, white evokes cleanliness, while black creates contrast.
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The five flavors should also come together in a washoku meal: sweetness, sourness, saltiness, bitterness, and umami. In particular, umami, which means “savoriness,” is strongly associated with Japanese cuisine, as it can be found in many common ingredients such as bonito, soy sauce, miso, kelp, and shiitake mushrooms.
Finally, inspired by Buddhist monks’ reflections when taking their meals, washoku encourages diners to cultivate five attitudes, mainly revolving around gratitude for every source and process that made the meal possible, mindfulness, and humble acceptance.
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Read our guide to sushi for an in-depth explainer on one of the most famous examples of washoku, or learn more about omakase-style dining, which is offered at many premium washoku restaurants, with this guide.
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